This British-born subculture has a long and varied history dating back to the s when working class mods split from their more bourgeois counterparts. Distinguished by practical clothing—work boots, suspenders—and the close-cropped haircuts of industrial laborers, skinheads became a subculture unto their own, overlapping with the nascent punk rockers, Jamaican rude boys, ska and reggae dancehallers alike. By the late 70s, a second wave of skinheads had emerged, in part a humble reaction to the commercialization of punk. From there a mixture of influences—including football hooliganism and right wing politics—contributed to any number of variations on the style, a small minority of which were predicated on racial identity. By the time Gavin Watson started making photographs of his friends and neighbors in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, the first wave of s skinhead culture had come and gone. Punk and New Wave were happening, and skinhead subculture was part of a cross-mingling within this working class underground milieu.
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A skinhead is a member of a subculture which originated among working class youths in London , England , in the s and soon spread to other parts of the United Kingdom , with a second working class skinhead movement emerging worldwide in the s. Motivated by social alienation and working class solidarity , skinheads often shortened to “skins” are defined by their close-cropped or shaven heads and working-class clothing such as Dr.
Martens and steel toe work boots, braces , high rise and varying length straight-leg jeans , and button-down collar shirts, usually slim fitting in check or plain. The movement reached a peak during the s, experienced a revival in the s, and, since then, has endured in multiple contexts worldwide. The rise to prominence of skinheads came in two waves, with the first wave taking place in the late s and the second wave originating in the mid s to early s. The first skinheads were working class youths motivated by an expression of alternative values and working class pride, rejecting both the austerity and conservatism of the s-early s and the more middle class or bourgeois hippie movement and peace and love ethos of the mid to late s.
Skinheads were instead drawn towards more working class outsider subcultures , incorporating elements of early working class mod fashion and Jamaican music and fashion, especially from Jamaican rude boys. Members of the second generation in the s were often ex-punks or influenced by the punk subculture. Many of these second generation ex-punk and punk-influenced skinheads, though fans of ska and reggae like the previous generation of skinheads, continued to listen to and create punk music and were heavily involved in the punk movement.
Skinhead subculture has remained closely connected with and has overlapped with punk subculture ever since.
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All the symbols depicted here must be evaluated in the context in which they appear. Few symbols represent just one idea or are used exclusively by one group. For example, the Confederate Flag is a symbol that is frequently used by white supremacists but which also has been used by people and groups that are not racist.
Racist skinheads view anti-racist skinheads (typically known as SHARPs, white power music band (dating back to ) from Minneapolis.
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When reggae emerged in the late s, it came as a cultural bombshell not only to Jamaica but the whole world. Reggae has influenced societies throughout the world, contributing to the development of new counterculture movements, particularly in Europe, in the USA and Africa. Indeed, by the end of the s, it participated in the birth of the skinhead movement in the UK.
Finally, since the late s onwards, it has also influenced singers originating from Africa, Alpha Blondy, Tiken Jah Fakoly and Lucky Dube being perfect examples.
A close look at a very particular and very provocative British subculture – Skinhead. Explores how Skinheads became associated with street fighting, hooliganism.
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